Day 53 - Santiago de Compostela to Negreira

Date: June 26, 2015

Location: From: Santiago de Compostela  To: Negreira

Mileage: 22.4 km

Weather: Cool and very overcast and sometime a little misty, no rain

Temperature: Mid 60s° F at 6:00 a.m. and in the upper 70s° F at 6:00 p.m.

Lodging and Cost: Hospedaje (Hostal) La Mezquito - 25€

GPS Location: ’42.909525” N and ’ -8.736148” W

Highlights: Looking back on Santiago de Compostela and the seeing the city and the Cathedral from high up on a hill. Crossing an old Roman bridge with the waterfall in the background. It was a great sight. Walking the nice paths that are like the trails back home and not having to deal with roads and cars. 

Summary of the Day: 

I woke up this morning at 5:00 a.m. but moved slowly as I was not going to leave until around 7:00. I actually did leave a little earlier than that, about 6:30, because it was really light enough to see and I wasn't sure if it was going to rain. It was a nice walk out of town. I went down by the cathedral and toward the park. It was all downhill out of town and then the climbing started, but not a bad climb. For a change I wasn't the only one leaving town early in the morning, there were about five others.

As I walked along I came across a couple from Bulgaria and we spoke for a few minutes as they knew very little English. Next was an Italian couple who spoke even less English, but asked me if I spoke Spanish, and I said some, but slowly. Again we only spoke for a few minutes. After that I was alone until I stopped to get some breakfast at this little café in the village of Ventosa. I was sitting there eating and this man comes up and puts his pack at the same table as mine and in the chair right next to me and goes on inside the restaurant, but never comes out to sit at the table. When I finished and packed up he comes out and packs up also. As I walk away he is right on my heels. I thought something was odd about this, but just walked on and so did he. He was right on my heels for about four km, so I just stopped to look at my book and force him to pass me. He does and I think that it is settled but about a km up the trail there he stands like he is waiting on me. I just pass by him and he starts walking again. Now he's back on my heels so I figure if he wants to follow then let him keep up. The man has never said a word to me so I'm going to leave him, which I do.

Later I come to a really pretty bridge with a waterfall in the back ground so I take a picture of it, but I want one with me in it, so I see him coming and decide to wait and ask him to take a picture. I know he doesn't speak English so I ask him in Spanish to take a picture of me and he responds to me in Spanish, "No, get someone else" and walks on. I did and then started walking again. It wasn't long before I  saw him stopped along the trail and as I approach him he asked me which way is the trail. I seriously debated about telling I didn't know and let him figure it out for himself, but I wasn't going to be like that so I told him and kept on walking and now he was back on my heels, but not for long as he couldn't keep up.

I was almost at my town that I was staying in anyway so it didn't matter. I got to the Hostal and went in, but the room wasn't ready yet so I had a café con leche and waited. It wasn't too long and my room was ready. After cleaning up, I toured the little town. This is a great little town, it's not too big or small but has everything that you could want or need. The woman at the Hostal is very nice and she has seen fit to correct some of my Spanish without me having to ask her. I guess she is one of those that feels if you're going to speak then do it correctly. Some people might get offended but I told her to correct me anytime I'm wrong. Later in the day I went and asked her some questions on Spanish grammar and word usage and she spent about 15 or 20 minutes going over the proper words to use. She also told me that if I just spent some time in Spain that I could become fluent in no time.

Later in the evening she started the Pilgrim’s menu for dinner in the dining room, so rather than go out and try to find a place to eat I just ate in there, and I'm glad I did the meal was really good. She had a dish called chicken steak. It was like our chicken breast but it was cut thinner like a regular steak and then grilled with a lot of herbs  and seasonings that I don't know, but it was so tender that you could cut it with a fork and it was the best tasting chicken that I've had here. The salad was gigantic with everything on it. After dinner it was time to start packing for tomorrow as I planning on doing a larger mileage day and I've been looking at the profile and it appears that I have two mountains to climb over and it looks like they are on a road, which is never any fun, because of  the traffic, but more importantly the heat from the asphalt road just burns your feet so badly. I will try to get out early and get the bulk of the walk done while it is cool.

The walk today from Santiago de Compostela was an enjoyable walk and I remember it from two years ago. A lot of neighborhoods and a lot of wooded paths which are always nice, because it is easy on your feet and it is cooler. So with that I will close for tonight… Buen Camino.

Go to top