Day 55 - Olveiroa to Cee

Date: June 28, 2015

Location: From: Olveiroa  To: Cee

Mileage: 18.3 Km

Weather: Heavy fog at 6:00 a.m. with a light mist, but later in the morning, 9:00 a.m. all burned off and clear blue skies.

Temperature: Upper 50s° F at 6:00 a.m. but in the 70s° F in the afternoon

Lodging and Cost: Hotel Larry - 30€

GPS Location: ’42.953728” N and ’ -9.188373” W

Highlights: Views from the mountains near Logoso, the valleys and the river below. The view of the sea from the summit of Alto do Cruceiro.

Summary of the Day: 

I was up at 5:15 a.m. and out the door by 5:50, and just as I stepped out I noticed that it was misting and the pavement was getting wet. This is really the first time it seemed like I was going to need a pack cover and I wasn't taking any chances. I took my pack off under the terrace cover and put it on. At the same time the door opened and the owner, Pablo, came out an told me to wait just a minute before I left. He went inside and came back out with two bananas and an apple for me to take with me and also asked if I would like for him to make me a cup of coffee, but I told him no, but thank you. Nobody wants you to leave without something to eat or at least to take with you.

Well with my pack cover on and the mist seemingly getting harder, I took off. I knew that it wasn't rain but just a thick fog. As I climbed the mountain the fog got thicker and the mist got heavier. Soon the fog just disappeared and I could see all of the valley and the river below. It wasn't long and I came to the Albergue Logoso and the Bar/Café was open; it looked like a good time to stop and eat and get a cup of coffee. After breakfast the trail went into the woods and was on a path for the rest of the time until I reached Cee and then it went onto the road going into town. The wooded path was great. It was just like the trails that I hike at home and it climbed up and over the summit of Alto do Cruceiro, where there was a large cross along side the trail. Again people stop and put rocks on it and all around it.

At that point the ocean came into view and you could see not only to the horizon but it was clear enough to see all the coast line with all the little houses scattered around. I had been hiking all morning alone and hadn't seen a single person, but the minute the coast was in sight and I was going to take pictures, it seems like everybody came running up. I finally pushed on as I was really looking forward to getting to Cee and the Hotel Larry.

When I was here two years ago I stayed there and it was a really nice room and it looked out onto the ocean, which I was less than five minutes walking distance away. The owner, Pepe, was a engineer turned chef. He always wanted to be a chef but his dad wanted him to be an engineer so he honored his father by becoming an engineer, but when his father died he changed professions and started cooking and then he bought the hotel. He has his daughters working there and he cooks. The meals that he makes are the best, at least they were two years ago, and I don't have any reason to thing they have changed.

I got there and his daughter was working the bar and the front desk. I told her that I had a reservation and she said yes and gave me a key and told me what room I was in. When I got up to the room it was the same one as last time. The view was wonderful. I could see the ocean and all of the beach right from my window. After I cleaned up it was time to head to the beach. What I didn't know was there was some kind of flea market/bazar going on in the plaza and it was very hard to get through it all. I have never seen so many booths selling shoes, wallets, pocketbooks, and sheets and blankets in my life, not to mention the fruit stands, salted meats, and fresh fish. I didn't at anytime see any fresh foods on ice, but just lying there on a table for sale and people were buying.

It's always interesting to see what people buy. I just walked along and watched the people. That's one thing that I have enjoyed about this trip are the people and how they live. As it got later, I thought that I would go up and see about dinner and if the restaurant was going to be open because it was a Sunday. I remember in Porto, Portugal on Sunday they didn't open any restaurants on Sunday so everybody went hungry. I asked Pepe’s daughter if he was cooking and she said that he was. I went down to the restaurant and was greeted by Pepe. I had a nice conversation with him. I told about my previous time there, and I knew that he didn't remember me, but he listened and acknowledged everything I said and was very pleasant. I ordered a Bistec (grilled steak) and it was cooked to perfection and the Galician soup was perfect as well. When I get home I'm going to get a recipe for it. I think my Galician cabbage should be up and ready to pick some.

Pepe came out and sat with me for a little bit while I finished eating and we talked some more. He told me that the Spanish that is spoken back toward the middle of Spain is now more difficult for him to speak and that for the past 15 years he has pretty much spoken Galician, but a lot of his brothers and sisters still speak pure Spanish and that they live in New York so they talk mostly on the phone.

After I finished dinner I packed up and got ready for the next day's hike. Tomorrow’s not a long day or a big mileage day but I need to be rested. With that I am going turn in, so for now I will say….Buen Camino.

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